SAW BLADES AND CUTTING STRIPS
This is all about balancing results with budget. 7.25 inch thin-kerf blades are cheap and yield sort-of OK results. OK if you don't mind rough cut surfaces (and more visible glue lines) and possibly variations in strip thickness. You will get more strips out of a board going this way, and a saw with marginal power will have an easier time of it.
On the other end from cheap flimsy saw blades is my 10 inch Forrest Woodworker II standard kerf blade. I have built two kayaks using this blade. It yields perfect strips every time and the cut surfaces are smooth as glass. That blade does an excellent job on hardwoods as well. The downside is the amount of wood turned into sawdust.
Next up is my Forrest Woodworker II thin kerf blade. As smooth as its thicker brother and consumes a bit less wood. And it's really quite a bit better than my old Systematic and Freud full size thin kerf blades. There is no comparison really.
If you have ever contemplated cutting strips oversize and then running them through a thickness planer, well don't. Yeah, perfect strips ease build difficulty and shortens build time, but if you have an adequate table saw, a quality saw blade might be all you need to make great strips (along with the usual feather boards, solid fence, etc.)